Miraflores

Miraflores stretches along Lima's edge, its parks high above the Pacific. Below, the coastal road and beaches follow the curves of the Costa Verde. Above are residential streets, hotels and restaurants. The sea keeps drawing you outside: a walk with a view, a pause by the water and somewhere to pick up a coffee.

There is a surprising amount of history here too. Huaca Pucllana's great earthen pyramid rises among the buildings. Towards the northern coast, the LUM explores the effects of political violence in Peru. Archaeology, recent history and a seafood lunch all belong to this district, each worth giving some time to.

Parks above the Pacific

The malecón is the promenade along the clifftop. Parque del Amor features El Beso, the embracing couple by Peruvian artist Víctor Delfín. Parque Raimondi has play areas and sports facilities. Pick a stretch and pause along the way: the open horizon makes this a very different walk from the streets around the district centre.

The beach and promenade are at different levels. If you want to reach the water, look up where to go down and come back up; a hotel described as ‘by the sea’ may stand on the cliff. With a pushchair, it helps to look at the upper path first. A sea breeze, a bench and a short detour for something to eat can make a very pleasant afternoon.

Huaca Pucllana: building with earth

Huaca Pucllana was a ceremonial centre used by the Lima, Wari and Ychsma cultures. Its construction history is written into the walls: researchers found older sections of rammed earth with small adobe bricks added above them later. The material itself is worth looking at during a visit. Notice how so many small bricks make up such a large complex.

Excavations also reveal connections with the sea. Archaeologists have recovered ceremonial pottery featuring sharks and sea lions, giving the coast beyond the site a historical role. A guided visit can help make sense of those connections; ask the museum about available languages and visit formats.

Recent history at the LUM

The Lugar de la Memoria, la Tolerancia y la Inclusión Social stands on Bajada San Martín. Its permanent exhibition moves from the effects of violence on Peruvians to the ways society responded, ending with a space commemorating victims. Give it a separate visit if you want to understand more of Peru's recent history.

Accounts of violence and its victims can be distressing. With children, looking at the virtual exhibition beforehand can help you decide together what is appropriate. Leave room for a conversation afterwards; a quiet break makes more sense here than rushing straight to another appointment.

Seafood for lunch at La Mar

La Mar is at Avenida La Mar 770. Its menu shows just how varied a seafood lunch can be: mixto cebiche combines fish, octopus and prawns, while the criollo version comes with crisp-fried octopus. Share a few preparations if you want to try different flavours. Ask about portion sizes before everyone orders their own collection of starters.

For lunch before the LUM, a restaurant in this part of Miraflores makes more sense than a table at the southern end of the district. Around Parque Kennedy, a meal fits naturally into a walk through the centre. Let the location help you choose as well as the menu.

Choosing your part of Miraflores

Parque Kennedy and Parque 7 de Junio together form the central park area, a useful landmark if you want to stay among the city streets. For daily sea-view walks, look closer to the malecón. If Pucllana, La Mar and the LUM are your priorities, an address on that side of the district is more useful than the label ‘Miraflores’ alone.

Lima's historic centre is a separate outing. Barranco lies further along the coast and adds art and old houses to a stay. Mark your main destinations on the map when choosing accommodation; for museum visits and restaurant bookings, that is more useful than relying on a general journey time across Lima.